People's Kingdom

In the Thunder Dragon Kingdom, where cypresses grow
Refuge of the glorious monastic and civil traditions,
The King of Druk, precious sovereign,
His being is eternal, his reign prosperous
The enlightenment teachings thrive and flourish
May the people shine like the sun of peace and happiness!
-The Bhutanese National Anthem

One event that did not quite make headlines last week, was the introduction of democracy in the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan. With 'democracy' being the holy cow of the global order these days, it was surprising that little noise was heard from the western world. But why blame them? How many Indians know their tiny neighbour anyway?

Bhutan has always preferred to remain inside a cocoon, never to come out and look beyond the beautiful mountains that have isolated it from the rest of the world for centuries. It has always been a land of contradictions. It has one the lowest per capita incomes in the world. Yet, the people refuse to be marked on that scale and the 'Land of the Thundering Dragon' has its own way of measuring their national output, their 'Gross National Happiness'. The economy is almost purely dependent on tourism, mainly from India. For years, India managed and advised its foreign policy. The largest city, its capital, Thimphu, is perhaps one of the cleanest cities in the world with dustbins reportedly kept at every ten metres. But it is nowhere when it comes to urbanisation. It is probably the only country that stood by India in its fight against extremism, extending complete co-operation to Indian agencies when North-eastern ultras sought to use it as a launchpad for their anti-India activities. And last week saw another.

People voted for a people's government, against their own wishes. For the first time in a land that has never known a leader besides its King. Bhutan inched towards a new beginning, that of a constitutional monarchy from an absolute one. Many of Bhutan older nationals could not understand the need for such an epoch making exercise. The newly formed Election Commission of Bhutan, worked for years to get people acquainted with a new system. It was greatly helped by the Indian Election Commission. The Bhutanese voted on the very same Electronic Voting Machines that Indians are so used to now. The greater challenge lay in sowing the seeds of democracy in a nation that never seemed to want it. This is in stark contrast with the struggles in many parts of the world by people to get to elect their own leaders.

It was a rare event that the party that won the elections, the Druk Phuensum Tshogpa, was congratulated by every Bhutanese on being Bhutan's first democratically elected government. Compare that with the drama that ensues every time a government is elected in India. Though the Bhutanese officials looked up to India to lay the foundations of democracy in their country, it is India and its people who have been taught a lesson or two when it comes to going to polls. Heavy turnout, national debates, careful assessment of candidates, local participation in discussing issues that are more about development than religion, caste and regional parochialism. Bhutan again showed that the so-called backward nation can actually be a torch bearer when it comes to being a nation.

I would love to visit and explore this fascinating country one day. It is one of the rare examples of human society that wants to be with the world while at the same time loves to be with itself.

For more information on Bhutan, visit its beautifully designed national tourism portal.
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